Basic Captive Care of Bogertophis subocularis
Suboc.com’s Basic Care for Trans-Pecos Ratsnakes
By Dusty Rhoads
The Most Important Requirement for Success
Ventilation is the most important care requirement with this species. It is absolutely paramount for their health and well-being in captivity. You can do well with this species in high-humidity climates, but you must have a VERY well-ventilated cage. There are several ways to do this. Screen lids and well-drilled rack tubs are a couple of good methods to achieve this. An oscillating fan helps too.
Acquiring & Acclimating New Stock
When you receive a new suboc shipped to your door, you should already have a cage ready to put it into with plenty of water in its drinking dish. The snake is probably quite thirsty, and it’s probably had a nervous time being shipped in a box. Though it’s tempting, avoid the urge to handle it for the first few weeks. Allow 
the snake to get used to its new cage, and wait at least seven days before offering it food. Be sure that its cage has a proper hiding place or two and a temperature gradient, allowing the snake to thermoregulate according to its needs.
Three young subocs are feeding on fuzzy mice after subduing them. These color phases are, from left to right, Bleached Blonde, Golden-brown, and Mustard Blonde. Each hatchling tub is well-ventilated with holes drilled by a Dremel® rotary tool.
Caring for Youngster Subocs (hatchling – 18 months)
Caging: In our experience, shoebox sized cages are best with this age group. If you use aquaria, 5 gallons is plenty big enough and 10 gallons is our maximum recommended size. Keep them caged individually and separate from other snakes.
Substrate: We would suggest that you consider using paper towels for young Trans-Pecos Ratsnakes. This will allow you to keep a more careful watch on uneaten food items, and stool checking is much easier this way too. It also makes stomach impacting from substrate impossible. Paper towels are also easier and cheaper to replace than wood shavings.
Hide box: Tight and snug is better than wide and roomy.
Heating & Temperatures: Low to mid-70sF on the cool end and low to mid-80sF on the warm end of the enclosure. Night drop okay, but not necessary. We recommend using a substrate-type of heat source such as a heat cable or heat pad connected to a rheostat or dimmer-switch allowing for manual control of heat output.
Water: Keep available good, clean water at all times, and remember to ventilate!
Food: Small pinkies to large fuzzies or small hoppers for this age group. Once a week to every 10 days. DO NOT POWERFEED Trans-Pecos Ratsnakes.
Feeding Methods: Frozen/thawed (F/T) are usually accepted, but an individual may sometimes get picky and switch back and forth from pre-killed F/T to live and then back again. Offer food items at night just before you turn out the lights. Gently shaking or “twitching” a pre-killed mouse with extra-long 18” forceps (tweezers) can often fool a baby snake and get it to start accepting frozen/thawed mice again.
Shedding & Skin Conditioning: Keep a humidity box in the cage where a snake can hydrate its skin. A lidded, plastic food container filled 2/3 of the way full with dampened sphagnum moss or paper towels works really well. Cut an entrance/exit hole in the top at least 3X the girth of the snake.
Caring for Sub-Adult and Adult Subocs (18 months and older)
Caging: 10 – 30 gallon-sized aquaria for young adults. 30 gallons or larger aquaria for mature adults. If you use aquaria, then use screen tops. Rack tubs are great with this species as long as they are generously ventilated. CB-70 sized racks are excellent.
Substrate: Paper towels and newspaper are good. We use aspen with our adults and sub-adults, because stools are larger and can be scooped or picked out without having to change out the entire substrate. DO NOT USE CEDAR OR GRAVEL.
Hide box: Tight and snug is better than wide and roomy.
Heating & Temperatures: Same as above requirements for younger subocs.
Water: Keep clean water available at all times in a good, sturdy dish.
Food: Fuzzy mice to large adult mice or small rats. Once a week to every 10 days.
Feeding Methods: Same as above requirements for younger subocs.
Shedding & Skin Conditioning: Same as above requirements for younger subocs. Plus, a humidity box also makes a good nest box for gravid females.
Good luck with your Trans-Pecos Ratsnake, and don’t be afraid to try out other husbandry methods! Please e-mail or call us any time you have questions! We will likely have a more in-depth care page on Suboc.com in the not-too-distant future, but these basic requirements should be enough to keep your Trans-Pecos Ratsnake happy and healthy.
Copyright © 2006 Suboc.com. Do not borrow, post, cut-and-paste, or use any of this or other information or photos at Suboc.com as your own and without first obtaining written permission from Suboc.com. Thank you!
- Dusty and Amy Rhoads / Owners of Suboc.com
Specializing in Designer and Display Quality Trans-Pecos Rat Snakes